Liverpool 2 Tottenham Hotspur 2

Premier League

Sunday 4 February 2018

‘pool pages

The context

This would be John’s first time at Anfield. The number of tourists with similar ambitions – along with our refusal to pay ridiculously inflated prices – had made arranging things rather difficult. But now, thanks to our friend Pete, we were Spurs fans for the day; a Premier League price cap on away tickets also meant this privilege set us back far less than any daytripper.

The history

fast-growing

When Stanley Park was laid out in 1870 it provided much-needed recreational space for fast growing suburbs. Anfield – until then open countryside, with the occasional isolated villa – was rapidly sprouting respectable red-brick homes. Their factory-worker tenants could now enjoy extensive formal gardens, the ornate Gladstone Conservatory, lakes, fountains and even a horse-riding circuit.

waterfront

These sedate streets became steadily more crowded as Everton Valley fell away towards the eight-mile Mersey waterfront and met Scotland Road’s crowded slum housing. Slave trading had been extremely profitable for Liverpool; nine million people later emigrated from here to the New World, while by 1900 only London could match its quarter of a billion pounds’ worth of annual trade.

Star date

Numerous passenger companies fought over lucrative transatlantic trade. The White Star Line became known (among non-emigrants at least) for luxury; Cunard, meanwhile, prioritised fast crossing times. Each new arrival from overseas brought much-needed employment. At one time an estimated 25,000 Liverpudlians relied on the docks for their living.     

grand

George Stephenson’s Liverpool-Manchester line became the world’s first inter-city railway in 1830. Locomotive-hauled passenger trains ran to Crown Street station near Edge Hill, while freight was pulled by ropes along a steep, mile-long tunnel between there and Wapping Dock. The grand new terminus on Lime Street opened shortly afterwards.

goods yards

Goods yards spread rapidly along Merseyside. Another cable-hauled incline soon connected Waterloo Dock with Edge Hill, while yet more tracks looped northwards through Bootle. When Liverpool Central was built – to provide services for Manchester Central, Hull and St Pancras – its underground cutting passed mere feet above the Wapping tunnel roof.        

innovative

Passenger traffic also grew. Tracks beneath the Mersey connected Liverpool with Birkenhead, while an innovative overhead railway – serving every commercial wharf between Toxteth and Seaforth – was used for twenty million journeys every year. The suburban route between Canada Dock and Edge Hill, meanwhile, provided convenient access to Everton FC’s ground via Breck Road station.

stands

Everton were Football League founder members. They had rented land beside Stanley Park and built facilities for 20,000 spectators, but arguments with landlord John Orrell over rising costs – followed by an abortive takeover bid from Orrell’s friend, rebel committeeman John Houlding – saw them move out in 1894. Houlding subsequently installed his own breakaway club, Liverpool, to play there instead.  

stunning

Success under Shankly drove substantial ground improvements. Anfield would be largely rebuilt between 1963 and 1973. But the first new stand had to squeeze behind houses on Kemlyn Road; its roof pitched sharply upwards, making some seats unusable. These limitations nevertheless produced an attractive, angular design that was both architecturally stunning and provided good views.  

terraces

The wooden Anfield Road end gained concrete terraces and a cantilever roof that wrapped around both corners. Standing survived here until 1982, when Liverpool’s pressing need for more seats led to another conversion. One claustrophobic wedge – used by visitors – survived by the Kemlyn Road corner, where you went in at pitch level before struggling up often dangerously overcrowded staircases.

garish

These two stands used to have League football’s brightest seats. Paisley – according to popular legend – became frustrated at losing sight of reserve-team players against the previous uniformly-coloured background, so they were refitted in blocks described by Simon Inglis as “a glaring shock…orange, ochre, violet, red, emerald green and cream.”

box-like

Leitch’s fine main stand also changed beyond recognition. Its distinctive barrel roof and wrought-iron gable were lost, while the seating deck doubled in size. A high, box-like cover now extended over both upper tier and paddock; this allowed Liverpool to replace the last surviving part of their original 1957 floodlight system with modern, gantry-mounted lamps. 

The journey 

scale model

We met up in Maghull. Black cabs cruised like basking sharks around Everton Valley; residents-only restrictions mean the days of “mind yer car mister?” have long gone, but I still swerved plenty of opportunistic scalls in high-viz renting out abandoned streets and other peoples’ driveways. Parking at the secure yet curiously fish-like North Liverpool College felt a much safer option.

The ground

marooned

That narrow Kemlyn Road side could only be expanded by buying up adjacent properties. Elderly sisters Joan and Nora Mason wouldn’t leave their terraced home; Liverpool callously demolished almost every other building on the street, leaving it marooned on open wasteland with a derelict house either side for support. Passing supporters routinely abused the two old ladies every matchday.

fair Kop

Lord Justice Taylor legitimised yet more ugly expansionism. A new Centenary Stand, incorporating Kemlyn Road’s original 1960s seating rake, was soon followed by the rebuilt and seated Kop. All this time Liverpool – ably abetted by Council planners with their own motives for hastening local depopulation – continued to stealthily acquire vacant housing stock. 

devastation

Their properties were never subsequently sold. Many remained empty for decades; the area became run down, so that prices fell still further. This strategy eventually enabled Anfield Road’s long-awaited upper tier to be built, followed by a vast new Main Stand seating 20,000. The stadium now towers proudly above scenes of deliberately engineered social devastation.

walk on

Strangers once avoided the Kop. Most now head straight there to worship at Liverpool’s enormous shop, take advantage of numerous selfie opportunities and self-consciously drink overpriced lager served by authentic pubs that only open on matchday. We saw hundreds today, an awkward crocodile of replica nylon straggling along Everton Valley and Walton Breck Road in search of something their very presence has destroyed.

cutting edge (David Rostance)

Size will never replace substance. A piece of Liverpool history vanishes with every tinned-up street that falls to the wrecking ball. Those dinky new houses seem nice enough, but something visceral has been lost; modern away fans will never know the sense of menace that lasted until your brick-dented train had left Edge Hill’s ominous cuttings behind. 

Flesh and wine

crown jewel

For all Anfield’s managed dereliction there are still some proper boozers about. We found Pete in the admirable Grove Hotel, which somehow manages to survive despite almost every neighbouring building having been demolished. Muggy heat misted its Victorian bar parlour windows while likely lads of all ages supped away the last hour before kick-off. 

me, myself and pie

Homebaked also keeps going. This co-operative community bakery – previously Mitchell’s – sells particularly celebrated pies. Pete has long been a devoted customer despite living several hundred miles away. It occupies one corner of tinned-up Donaldson Street, so may unfortunately be living on borrowed time like everything else else around here.  

The game

overhanging

Anfield’s cramped away corner isn’t a great vantage point. We stood at the back beneath its overhanging upper tier, getting showered with cement dust when Liverpool scored and fans above our heads jumped up and down. People watching TV in their living rooms back home had far more idea whether or not two late Spurs penalties were correctly awarded.

mighty Mo

Sky pundits were apparently unsure. But in any event Harry Kane hit one straight at Loris Karius and scored the second during added time. They bookended a goal of sublime individuality by Lucien-from-Liver-Birds lookalike Mo Salah, who pirouetted through the Spurs defence on ballet-dancer feet before beating Hugo Lloris at his near post.

Kane mutiny

Salah and Kane are this season’s scoring sensations. The former pounced to put Liverpool ahead before their visitors could properly settle. Matters then calmed down until Spurs took control of the game after half-time, deservedly equalising with Victor Wanyama’s thirty-yard strike in front of the Kop. Cue those crazy final minutes; after the dust had settled we all agreed a draw felt about right.

Teams and goals

Liverpool: Karius, Alexander-Arnold, Lovren, van Dijk, Robertson, Can, Henderson (Wijnaldum 65), Milner (Matip 78), Salah, Firmino, Mane (Oxlade-Chamberlain 65). Unused subs: Moreno, Mignolet, Ings, Solanke.

Tottenham: Lloris, Trippier, Sanchez (Lamela 71), Vertonghen, Davies, Dier, Dembele (Wanyama 79), Son (Llorente 92), Eriksen, Alli, Kane. Unused subs: Vorm, Sissoko, Aurier, Winks.

Goals: Liverpool, Salah 3, 91; Tottenham, Wanyama 80, Kane 95.     

Att: 53,213